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Retro watches have never been more in demand. Which is why Christopher Ward’s C65 Trident GMT is perfect for today – a timepiece that harks back to the past, yet also boasts modern standards of engineering and reliability.

Want to know more? Here are five reasons why it should be your next watch.

It works with how you dress today
While some still wear a suit to the office, for many of us an unstructured blazer, selvedge jeans and a pair of brogues is the order of the day – precisely the sort of outfit made for the C65 Trident GMT. With its mid-century looks, 41mm case and contrasting red-blue ‘Pepsi’ bezel, the watch has enough retro cues to catch the eye of the most discerning style aficionado. “The GMT looks as good with a sweatshirt as it does with a formal jacket,” says Christopher Ward’s head of design, Adrian Buchmann. “You can wear it with anything, anywhere and at any time of the day.”

C65 Trident GMT


It pays tribute to a legend – without copying it
The first – and most famous – ‘GMT’ watch was the Rolex GMT-Master, launched in 1954 (Ref. 6542). Initially designed for Pan AM pilots, its fourth hand and 24-hour bezel enabled the wearer to tell the time, not just at home, but also in another time zone. Later, further clarification was added by splitting the bezel into ‘day’ and ‘night’ zones by the use of contrasting colours – the most iconic of which was the red-blue ‘Pepsi’ combination. At Baselworld 2018, both Rolex and Tudor launched new ‘Pepsi’ GMTs. “When we saw the reaction to the new Pepsis, we thought, why not do our own?” says Adrian. “However, it had to be on our terms. That’s why we went with the C65 as it has a much thinner bezel, helping it stand out from other, chunkier ‘Pepsi’ GMTs and our own C60 Trident GMT.”

C65 Trident GMT with red/blue bezel


The build quality is hard to match
The vintage-influenced C65 range has been a massive success for Christopher Ward, and holding the C65 Trident GMT in your hand it’s easy to see why. What’s striking is how it feels both light and sturdy – a tribute to Adrian’s subtle design and the quality of the brushed-and-polished 41mm case. “It’s perfectly proportioned,” says Adrian. “Not too big, not too small, not too sporty, not too classic. It’s a daily beater. You can wear it in any situation – whether you’re in the boardroom or on your way to the pool. And as it’s waterproof to 150 metres, it’s ideal for diving, too.”

C65 Trident GMT backplate


It boasts engineering and construction in perfect harmony
A watch of this quality would be short-changed by anything but a high-quality movement, and the Sellita SW330 GMT calibre is certainly no slouch. Beating at 28,800 times an hour, when fully wound it provides 42 hours of continuous timekeeping with a tolerance of 20 seconds a day. The bezel, meanwhile, is another revelation. Because steel can’t hold bright colours, the C65 GMT’s bezel is made from anodised aluminium, with the numbers filled in with white lacquer. Working out the time in another country has never been so easy.

C65 Trident GMT bezel detail


You won’t be able to stop looking at it (and neither will anyone else)
The C65 Trident GMT could well be the most striking watch Christopher Ward has ever made – a stunning tribute to the golden age of ‘tool’ watches. Whether you’re using it for regular timekeeping or keeping an eye on what time the New York/Tokyo office is open, its clean lines, unfussy dial (now with a date window) and stand-out fourth hand will ensure it always gets attention. Add in the option of a metal bracelet, leather or webbing strap, and you’ve got a watch that ticks both style and timekeeping boxes. Tempted? Maybe it’s time you took Christopher Ward’s own ‘Pepsi’ challenge?

The C65 Trident GMT starts at just £895. More information here

In the rarefied world of haute horology, the movement is the acknowledged star.

There’s a reason for this. Mechanical movements not only deliver accurate timekeeping but are a sign of traditional watchmaking expertise. Seeing a movement whirring away through the back of a watch is to glimpse a magical world of cogs, wheels, barrels and springs. All in miniature.

The case, on the other hand, receives far less attention and is often taken for granted. What is there to talk about?

The answer is rather a lot.

A case not only holds the movement, dial and crystal in place but is the public face of a watch. An exceptional case is one of the defining characteristics of an iconic timepiece – think Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso or Heuer’s Monaco for proof – and is the main the physical interface between the watch and the wearer’s wrist.

Which is why when Christopher Ward began to redefine itself three years ago, case design was one of the critical elements that had to be overhauled for the company to be considered a serious player in the industry. To senior product designer, Jorg Bader Jr, this improvement is a sign of broader progress throughout the business.

“We’ve made huge strides with our case designs, and a consistent aesthetic has developed,” he says. “We’ve started calling them our ‘light-catcher’ cases, because of the way light bounces off them.”

A process that began with the C1 Grand Malvern has now reached the company’s iconic diving watch, the C60 Trident, and its three new models: the Trident Pro 600, Trident GMT 600 and Trident Elite 1000 Limited Edition.

“On the C60, we’ve designed it so wears beautifully on the wrist, despite the fact it has to be thick to work at a depth of at least 600m,” says Adrian Buchmann, Christopher Ward’s Head of Design. “It has the same design philosophy as the other ‘light-catcher’ cases, but a more masculine, powerful look.”

On the wrist, the Trident feels as solid ever, but thanks to Adrian’s ingenious design it now sits lower on the wrist, enabling it to slide under a cuff with ease.

“The swage lines around the sides are crucial,” he says. “With this watch, we initially got it almost right – but not quite. We started to think the ‘waist’ was maybe a millimetre too high – so we redid the entire design to bring that down by just a fraction, giving the perfect balance between polished and unpolished elements.”

C60 Trident Pro 600 case profile

One thing that strikes the wear is the interplay of light on the case’s brushed, and polished surfaces. It reminds that we’re experiencing something built, not just for timekeeping, but pleasure, too. The Trident has always been a watch that you could wear at the pool, in the sea or at a board meeting, but the sleeker feel – alongside all the other new developments like the improved dial and hands – takes it to a whole new level.

“We’re lucky that our case manufacturer is as obsessed with quality as we are,” says co-founder Mike France. “He wouldn’t stop until he’d perfectly replicated Adrian’s design. And you can feel that obsession every time you wear the Trident 3.”

For Adrian, the case is a homage to the great timepieces of the 1960s and ’70s which so influence his work.

“I love vintage watches,” he says. “They had beautifully engineered cases which managed to hold the thicker movements of the time. Then in the 1990s and 2000s, the watch sector became more ‘industrial’ and case design more basic. Some brands lost the soul through this. But a great case adds intricacy and emotional depth.”

Inspection of Trident 3 dials

Like the painstaking work that went into creating the Trident’s sublime new diving bezel or the attention to detail you’ll see on the dial, the case is another step in Christopher Ward’s mission to create the world’s best watches at prices that belie their quality.

For Adrian Buchmann, the company is starting to reach its full potential. “We’re not at the level of Rolex – yet,” he says. “But we’re second or third in line. And the light-catcher case is a reflection of that. Other brands could do it, but they’d prefer to keep the money and not invest in their products. Our case is an outward sign of the inner quality of the watch.”

Discover more about the reimagined, re-engineered Trident 3 Collection here.